Pankisi Valley is one of several beautiful regions tucked away in Georgia that few have heard about, but there are so many rich cultural experiences and adventures to be had! And those who do travel there are almost always likely to return for a 2nd visit.
By the time you finish reading this, we hope you too are convinced and will soon travel to Pankisi and see it all for yourself!
The Kist are descendants of Chechens who migrated to this beautiful valley in the 18th century. They first settled here at the request of local Georgians needing protection from invading Dagestanis who would attack and plunder their villages. They speak the Kist dialect of Chechen language and follow Sunni Muslim traditions. There are 8-12 villages in the 10-kilometer valley, home to approx 6,000 people. There are also many Georgian and Ossetian villages in the area.
FOR THE CULTURAL OR HISTORY BUFF:
Cultural Walking Tour
Half and full day options are available. This is an excellent way to get acquainted with the history of not only the Pankisi Valley, but also the Kist people and their unique culture & traditions. Wandering through Jokolo and Duisi, the main villages of the area, you’ll get to see mosques, historical buildings, everyday life/homes, visit an apiary and taste delicious local honey, and visit a local brewery to learn about and taste the popular Kisturi non-alcoholic beer. This tour will give you the opportunity to ask questions and engage with a young local resident as you learn about their heritage. We definitely recommend this to all those visiting Pankisi! Your guest house hosts can help you arrange this opportunity.. ***NOTE: The cultural tour is do-able on foot but more accessible if you have your own transport (rental car, etc.), to experience more things beyond the small village you’re staying in.
Hands-On Experiences
Cooking Master Class
One of the best ways to learn about any given culture is through its cuisine! Not only will you have a plethora of opportunities to taste traditional Kist and Chechen dishes, but you can also try making them yourself in a master class guided by a local resident. Zhizhig galnash (“noodles” with tender boiled meat), khinkali (meat or nettle filled – with a shape slightly different to traditional Georgian khinkali), manty (meat-filled dumpling), and chaapilg or khinglash (cheese or pumpkin stuffed breads) will certainly give you an appreciation for the time and effort taken by Kist women to make delicious meals for guests and other cultural gatherings. Georgian dishes such as khachapuri (cheesy bread) or mchadi (Georgian cornbread) can also be prepared in master-classes, so you can mix the two cuisines or choose one or the other to focus on!
Felt-Making Master Class
These felt/wool designs and handicrafts are well known in mountainous areas across the Caucasus region. It is an art that continues to be passed on from generation to generation. Even if you don’t decide to take the masterclass, you will most likely see some of these products in your guest house or in small shops. You may even be able to watch ladies or children’s groups making some of these unique works of art, which often depict mountain scenes or other signs of local culture/tradition.
Visit Ethnographic Museum
Though it is small, the Pankisi Ethnographic Museum contains various artifacts from across the valley that provide a glimpse into the history, culture, and traditions of the Kist people and how they have changed or been preserved over time. An appointment is needed to visit the museum so be sure to ask your hosts about setting this up for you. It is also advisable to visit with a local who can share more about the displays since there are few signs explaining the various items. .
Observe an authentic Sufi Zikr Ceremony
On Friday mornings visitors are permitted to observe a group of Kist women perform a traditional Sufi Zikr Ceremony in the Old mosque of Duisi or a prayer room of a private home. While Zikr is practiced in different parts of the Muslim world, Pankisi is unique in that it is the only place where women are permitted to perform this ceremony in the mosque. Zikr is an active ritual involving chanting and singing while participants move about in a circle.***NOTE: Women will be expected to wear a headscarf if attending this as well as have their legs & arms covered. Men will be expected to wear pants, i.e. have their legs covered.
FOR THE ADVENTURER & OUTDOOR LOVER:
Explore ancient ruins & the watchtower
Many of these are accessible by car or short walks from the main roads and villages. Uphill “hikes” to the Amphitheater, WWII memorial, and Baltagori Watchtower nestled into the hillside are popular destinations, attainable by people of all ages and physical abilities. The Baltagori Tower is the only remaining tower of the original four that were built in the villages of Omalo, Birkiani, & Khalatsani. They were built in the 16th-17th century and used to send smoke/fire signals to the valley inhabitants when invaders were coming to attack.
Hiking & Mountain Biking
The best months for exploring trails are May-October, after the snow has melted and the spring rains have finished and before the intense cold and snow begin again. There are options for through-hiking to Tusheti, multi-day treks in the Batsara Nature Reserve with places to set-up tents for camping overnight such as Tbatana, or simple day hikes of various distances and difficulties (such as the uphill hike to King Tamar’s Shrine or a beautiful panorama vista). A popular one is to the Khadori Waterfall (this is also possible via horseback or by road if you have a 4×4 vehicle). It is also pleasant to walk along the beautiful Alazani River that flows through the middle of the valley. Mountain biking is a great way to explore the valley as well, with more trails being developed. At the present time, rental bikes are very limited so we advise bringing your own or renting one in Tbilisi for the duration of your trip.
Horseback Riding
This is one of the best ways to explore the Valley, especially since the Kist are known for their love of horses, the quality of horses they raise, and the natural giftedness they have in riding. Half-, full-, and multi-day riding tours are available. Whether you want to simply explore the villages and their simple surroundings or depart for an overnight trek in the Batsara Nature Reserve or the rugged mountain region of Tusheti, there are options to choose from for guests of all riding levels and experience!
For EVERYONE!
Wow your tastebuds with delicious authentic Kist cuisine from fresh home-grown ingredients! Whether you participate in a cooking master class or simply get to enjoy traditional Kist & Chechen dishes, your heart & stomach will be full from the generous hospitality of your hosts. Warning – this is NOT the place to travel when dieting as meat & dough-based dishes are staples of Kist cuisine.
HOW TO GET THERE??
Pankisi Valley is located in the western part of Georgia’s Kakheti region, approximately 2.5-3 hours drive northwest from Tbilisi. There are multiple options for travelling to Pankisi from Tbilisi:
- Whether you have your own transportation or choose to rent a car in Tbilisi, you can drive yourself from the south side of Tbilisi over the scenic Gombori pass to Telavi, then on to Pankisi via Akhmeta (approx 45 minutes from Telavi). You can also choose to go from the north end of Tbilisi via the scenic road to Tianeti, then through Akhmeta and on to Pankisi.
- You can take a marshrutka (minibus) or taxi to and from Pankisi. Marshrutkas leave from Ortachala bus station in Tbilisi at 7:30am and 2:20pm. Marshrutkas travel more frequently to Telavi and Akhmeta; from these cities you can take a local van or taxi to your final destination in Pankisi. Marshrutkas return to Tbilisi from Pankisi at 6:00am. Alternatively, you can take a van or taxi to Akhmeta or Telavi and then a marshrutka to Tbilisi since there are more options throughout the day from those cities.
- You can take a shared taxi (or hire the whole car) from Isani bus station (behind the metro). Your guest house host can help you arrange a space in a taxi for your return to Tbilisi.
- You can book a private driver through various apps, such as GoTrip.
OTHER HELPFUL TIPS:
Pankisi is a “dry” area, meaning consumption of alcohol on the premises of the guest houses is not permitted.
There are two other local cafes at the entrance to the village of Duisi where you can try Kist cuisine: Restaurant Inside & Restaurant Pankisi. There are also a few small grocery shops where you can buy basic food staples. But the best option (and one we recommend!) is to have your guest home host cook for you.
Pankisi is a culturally rich, naturally beautiful place you won’t soon forget, with all its delightful sights, sounds, smells, and tastes which you will carry with you deep in your heart and mind for many years to come.
If you’d like us to arrange a multi-day adventure to Pankisi Valley for your private group, let us know! We work with reliable local guest-home operators and have planned dozens of excursions for groups since 2022.